MATARANKA

Dear all,
Tuesday, 28/7/09

Woke up to red dust everywhere. Our camp site is beside a track that is used by some thoughtless caravanners instead of the road. The road is red dirt as well, but is compacted enough not to fly up when cars drive over it, but the track, which we didn't realise was a track when we arrived, is just red bull dust which flies up and settles on everything in its way when someone drives over it. Too much of a hassle to move.

Mataranka is on the Roper River and about an hour's drive south of Katherine. The population is about 250 and the town services outlying cattle stations and Aboriginal communities. Into town we go and found it very similar to Tennant Creek although a bit more orderly. The town is mainly aboriginal and one can't purchase alcohol before 2pm and must show identification which is part of the Federal Government's Intervention Programme. 2 litre casks of wine on offer ($18.99) 1 case of beer only ($45) or 1 bottle of wine ($33). By law only 1 x 2 litre cask or 1 bottle of wine can be purchased per day OR 1 case of beer. Everyone has to show ID and if this is swiped at the register and if an alcohol related incident comes up on the computer, you are not allowed to purchase alcohol.

The area here is famous for thermal springs, and each of the 3 caravan parks in the vicinity have springs running through them. Where we are, Mataranka Homestead, is no exception and it was absolutely glorious to go for a swim (with 50 others) and just float around in the 34 degree, beautifully clear, blue water. During WWII, the officers used the thermal springs for their private use, but when the war was over, one officer stayed on and cemented the sides of the main pool, put in stairs and concrete path ways, and charged the public to use the springs. It is now free for all to use, as are the Bitter Springs, Rennie Springs and many others. To swim is a must - it gets the red dust off!




Mataranka was also made famous in the story "We of the Never Never" written in 1908.



Jeanie Gunn, the author, married the manager of Elsey Station which was nearby and moved here from Melbourne. The story is about her life and the hardships she encountered while living here and her interaction with the indigenous. Her husband died less than 12 months after they married and she moved back to Melbourne. The local Esley Cemetery has most of the characters from the book buried there. At Mataranka Homestead is a replica of the Gunn's original home which was built for the filming of the movie.


Of course, we had to watch the movie while we were here, bought the DVD at the Homestead, took it home, watched it for an hour then there was a black-out at the end! Ken went to bed in disgust and I read my book by torch.

Leave for Katherine tomorrow morning, Thursday, 30/7/09.
Love to all from us.